The sun is high, its heat being carried on a strong wind even at the base of Elephant Hill. Today is a climb to a view point of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. I’m told the most beautiful view, other than being on the mountain itself, is actually from Black Dragon Pool. So today I shall see both. Ascending to the peak of Elephant Hill and descending into the heart of Black Dragon Pool in Yunnan’ heat with no hat or sunblock. China is a country that to travel through requires the preparation for several seasons. Regardless of the inevitable sunburn I will suffer today I am determined to explore this area of Lijiang.
As with many of China’s hills and “mountains”, the route is a mixture of steps and dirt track. The wind increases its strength the higher I climb. Although this breeze is welcoming against my skin, I’m aware the effects will be visible later this evening! The path takes me past small pavilions that offer perfect resting ground for a snack and a glimpse of the views to come. You don’t have to climb for long before the whole of Lijiang starts to appear in front of you. The combination of an old town and a new city creates an interesting blend of architecture and scenery. The further I climb I look to the other side of Elephant Hill, the views are in contrast to that of Lijiang. Instead you see mountains for miles only being interrupted by farm land.
It’s not long before I come to a point where the steps split. Upwards for the view point and down to Black Dragon Pool. I continue the climb and come across old gravestones that are decorated with materials that then unfortunately litter across the mountain. I follow the noise of Chinese tourists to find the views that open so splendidly to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. It’s nothing short of breathtaking. The only negative to this whole scene is that Chinese tourists aren’t one to take in nature and its serene beauty in silence. There is excessive noise and endless selfies so I do not stay long. Instead I circle back to where the steps descend and take the route down to Black Dragon Pool.
This is a back route into the tourist hot-spot and actually avoids the entrance fee of 80 yuan. The ticket is not unreasonable as it also permits entry in Lijiang Old Town. As I enter I come across the Lijiang Academy for Naxi culture research. Although unable to enter the building, the grounds and plant life of its courtyard are quaint enough to wander through. Exiting the Academy I take in the scale of the area. At 40 hectares Black Dragon Pool is a haven for bird and water life. A diverse collection of plant life thrives here also and surrounding the pool are ancient monuments that help make up this stunning landscape.
Many tourists and, I assume, locals have gathered in this park to enjoy the scenery and give prayers at the temple. The pool is enormous and wandering around it’s easy to lose the crowds and enjoy the nature that is on offer. I come to the point on a bridge where Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is visible, set majestically between a temple and a pavilion. Oddly enough, I have to agree. It is this lower view point that offers the best view of the snowy mountain. This park has much history on offer. The emerald spring waters are famous for their curative powers, the temples mystery are surrounded in Chinese mythology, and the nature alone that fills the park gives reason for all who visit Lijiang to come and see Black Dragon Pool.